GUYANA 1999

Collecting and studying fish.

Text and photographs by: Alf Stalsberg.

Guyana is not the first country people go to, in fact I think there is very few people going there. Why?? Well it's not a tourist place, even though there is a lot of thing to see and do, but there is no beaches as a start. But if you go there to study the wildlife fauna, you will find a lot. And I don't think I've seen so much of the wildlife before on my trips. I've seen some of it, but not so much as this time in Guyana.

So let me start with the begining. Why going there in the first place?? Well there was some fish I would like to bring back. Aequidens potaroensis, Apistogramma, Nannacara, Livebearers, Corydoras and more. I start to plan the trip in good time, staying out in the bush need some planning. First checking out the ticket price and how to get there.

We flew from Norway to London, meet my other friends there, and we started out on the wrong foot nearly missing our plane. You see we was so happy after a loooonng waiting to check in, and when we was ready we went into a Pub to cool down with a beer. Finish the first beer order another one, the one of the boys said, what time was the departure?? One grab the ticket and look. And he said, the plane is leaving a quarter after twelve!! And the clock was five minutes past twelve. Guess who got a rocket in the back!! We jump up and run to the gate and they was saying "last call", but we made it.

We flew with BWIA, to Trinidad and landed first at Barbados and then Trinidad. At Trinidad we had to waite four hours before we flew to Georgtown in Guyana. While waiting at the airport in Trinidad, we was discussing what BWIA was short for. We did nort find anything before I went to the loo. You all know about the writings at the wall, and there I found the translation for BWIA. "Brittains worst investment abroad"?? We found out later what the letters was short for, and that was "Best West Indies Airlines", and I had nothing to complain about.Getting our baggage and getting through custome then we could walk out, from the airport in Guyana.

Outside I was met by an English friend called Duncan Pears, he was working here in Guyana on a two years contract as a teacher in forestry. A very nice guy, and he helped us a lot. He met us with the small school bus, and we got all our stuff in it and heading for our Hotel. Our Hotel was not Sheraton, but a small, very and nice guest house with a very nice and friendly owners.

The sign outside the Rima guesthouse, the cleanest in town.

When we had settled in our rooms we went out and down to a Chinese Restaurant call New Thriving Restaurant, and this was good.

In the morning the day after and after a good breakfast, we decide to take a look at the Paramaribo town. We did not go fare, and we brought our dipnet and outside the guesthouse there was a small ditch with not much water, but it was fish there, guppy and Pecilia picta.

The fish try to find a place in the shadow under the small "bridge", but there was not room for all, but later, there was a shover that increase the amount of water in the ditch and cool it down a bit.

There were fish even in an empty film cover.

We was waiting on our contact person, namely Duncan Pears, and he came and guiding as to the square where there was a marked place.

From there we plan to take a trip to the Botanical garden to have a look there.

Before we got that far, we stopped and look at a boy collecting fish in a canal. He had collect a Cichlasoma bimaculata and a a Hypostomus sp.

There it was also a zoo and a small aquarium that was not very impressive. After the zoo it was back to the guesthouse for lunch and a little nap.

The day after we should pick up our cars and out and start collecting fish. We decide to go down along the coast to see what we would find. We was going down to a place called Mahaica, but we did some stop before that to check out a pond. There we collect Poecilia pict and a Molly type. We took watersamles too. pH was 6,8 dH 3 Nitrit 0 and possision was N- 06-44' 25" W-057-57' 020" and the temperature was at noon 31 C in water and 35C in the air. Then we continue to Mahaica and tool some photos of an Anableps type and then a few cold beer before we drove further out to a place called Can Grove.

We collect several type of fish, Cichlasoma bimaculata, Nandida (Schomburgi), Nannostomus beckfordi, Copella, Gold Tetra, Hemmigramus type, Rivulus type,Apistogramma steindachneri and Crenicichla sp.

After breakfast the day after we start on road up to Linden, but we did not get very far before we had to stop to check a place called Madwani Creek, it was very teacolor water and the sight under water was not very good.
So we crossed the road and enter some small ponds or you can call them mudholes, but we did collect fish there. It was Rivulus sp., Leavefish, Copella type, and in the River I collected Crenicichla sp.,A. steindachneri, Nannostomus marginatus, and a Nannostomus sp."unilineatus who was very pretty, and we also collect a small Flagcichlid (Mesonauta)and Poecilocharax weitzmani, Crenuchus spilurus, and then it was an Acaronia or maybe it was Branchopsis?
The watersamples at Madwani was pH 6,4 dH 6 kH 0 and Nitrit was 0. Poss was N 06 -30' W 50- 12'

A little further up the road we stop at a small river and the place was called Kurukuru, this wa also with black water,but was a better biotop to dive in.

We collect Loricaria, A. steindahneri, possible Aequidens tetramerus, Crenichicla sp.,Mesonauta, different Tetras and Nanacara anomala. ph 6,4-dH 6 and kH 0. Water temperature 24,5 C and air was 33 C. The time were running fast when you enjoy yourself like we did, and we decide to continue up to Linden because it was the end of the day and we was not sure how far it was up to Linden and to find a place to stay.
We past several nice biotopes on our way up to Linden and decide to make some stop when we was going back to Georgetown.

The Hotel we found look good, I'm not sure if it was the Hotel or the owner of the Hotel who had the name Barrow, but it was okay. And we had a nice breakfast the day after.

Our plans was to go to a place called Mabura Hill, there was also a big sawmill there, but we did not come that far, because when we went to a gas station to fill the cars up before we went further. When I turned into the gas station the car died.

To make the story short, the camshaft was broken. I called the Budget in Georgtown and told them to come with a new car. They had to get a new camshaft before they could come, so that day was gone, but we fixed the car.

The day after we headed to Mabura Hill and we found that we was on the right track. No one here thought it was necessary to show people a sign, telling them that this was the right way. After about 50 km we saw a road going left into the forest, we decide to stop and get something to eat. We knew that on this ridge we would not find any rivers, but while we was eating there were two guys coming, and we asked them if there was any river here?? They said that if we followed the track down for about 2 miles we would find a small river. We decide to go down on this track to see if we would find this river. The track divide several times, so we took some branches to mark the track, so we would find the track back to the cars. On our way down to the river we met a rather long snake, it was dark green with a yellow belly. We took some photos, but kept a distance, we did not know if this snake was danger. Later we was told that this snake was not danger, it was an eggeater.

It was about 2 1/2 km. down to the river, it was crystal clear, but rather cool.

As you can see, the water is clear and it was a lot of Corydoras there.

We did see many small Lizzards and the biggest Grasshopper I have seen.

The photo is not very good, but it was the only I had.

It was a lot of Corydoras, Crenicichla sp., and 3 Tetra types, the current was rather strong, but there was no problem beeing in the river, and there was fine white sand in the river. It was 48,7 km. from the little brigde out from Linden and to where we parked our cars. Water temperature was 24,3*C., the air temperature was 28 grader, pH 5, dH 0, kH 0 , Nitrit > 0,1 and GPS possision var 05* -44 ' -25,9" N and 58 * - 27 ' -29 " W

Today we drove on the road to Rockstone, after about 21 km from Linden we came to a couple of huts, and if there is houses, there is usually water close to the houses, and so it was here.

We found a small stream with clear Tea colored water. There we collect an Nannacara sp., Apistogramma steindachneri, Rivulus sp., Splashingtetra and some yellowish Tetra. Water temperature was 25,8 degreese celsius , air was 31 degreese, pH was 5, dH 1, kH 0 and Nitrit >0,1. GPS possision was 5* 58' 36,1" N and 58* 31' 11 " W.

Nannacara sp-Rockstone road.

After about 5-600 meter ahead we came to a small river with the same type of water, maybe the same river?? The current was strong and it had also nice white sand. So we just had to get into the water.

I collect a couple of Crenicichla, Rhineloricaria, Paraoctocinclus sp., Rivulus, Tetra type, Apistogramma steindachneri and Characidum sp. Water temperature 25,8 air 31- pH 5, dH 1, kH 0, Nitrit > 0,1.

GPS possision was not so very different from the other place because they were close to each other. The possision was 5 * - 58' - 62" N and 58 * 31' 48 " W.

We continue against Rockstone and there we was told that we could not get out to Rockstone with our cars, we needed a 4x4 wheel Jeep. We drove out a little on the road, but we saw quickly that the ponds and hollows were to deep for our cars.

Vi turned around and decide to go back to Linden, but when we came there the other guys wanted to back to Georgtown. It was a good road from Linden to the roadcrossing where we came into the road from the airport. This road was not so good, it was bumpy, there was no light, many people in the road, cars with bad lights and they have put piles with sand that cover nearly half of the road. Holes you did not see, so it was a hell to drive there. I don't recommend driving in the dark, if it's not absolutly necessary, and I try to avoid this. After some seight seeing (not finding the right road in the dark), we found our Hotel, in the dark. Then a quick shover and down to the Chinese restaurant to eat. From Linden and down to Georgtown it was about 100-110 km.

We did not do much the day after, we made an arrangement to rent a 4x4 wheel with a driver. This car was a combi Toyota Hi-Lux and the drivers name was Jerry. We could not rent a 4x4 in Guyana, so that why we had to rent a car with a driver. He turns out to be great guy, and we should hire him from Monday and we would see how many days we needed him. We should go inland to the Rupunini Savannah to a Indian village with the name Annai.

Here we have loaded up the car and is ready to go. It's Jerry to the right. We have put our fish boxes up on the rack and the truck body, the rest of the guys is sitting in the car.

We went first up to Linden and then continue against Mabura Hill, but we made several stop to look at places that look promissing and ended up in Mabura hill in the evening. There was a hut there where we could hang our hammocks and make some food. And we could even buy beer there. We should continue to the Indian village Annai,the day after. But, of course we had to check interesting places before we got that far.

We had to check the rivers we saw.

Mixed collection with fish.

It was good that we had a 4x4 car, or I don't think we would made it to the Rupunini Savannah and Annai. And the road was bad, but out to the Essequibo River it went rather well. When we came to the river the ferry had stop for the evening, even when we saw the ferry on the other side. But there was a guy Jerry knew well, and he offer us a place in his camp. There we could make our food and put up our hammocks. We change water on our fish before we drove to Martins camp..

He could sell us Coke (warm) but it tast not too bad..

We hang up our hammock in this hut, and slept well.

Max is writing his memoir.

After breakfast the day after we drove down to the ferry, and the ferry was working and we drove the car onboard, it was just a short trip to cross the river..

Here they are washing out gold in the river, they are pumping up sand and water and the gold ends in the strainer.

Here we are drivin ashore, and we are going to make a stop at "Three miles Creek".

Three miles Creek had a little creek and it was only a place where they stop to take a break, fill water and gas on the cars, and talk a little.

There we saw a small armadillo, funny creature.

After the break we continue, and I have not seen so many different animales as I did on this trip in Guyana. A little further ahead we had to make a stop again, there were a sloth crawling across the road. This did not go very fast, they are not made for this, so we stopped and helped it out of the road and up in a tree.

Closeup of the sloth, funny animales, I've never been so close to one before.

I guess it felt much better up in the tree.

We did not go very far before we saw a snake crawling a cross the road, so we made a new stop to take some photos, it was a Rainbow boa. Very nice markings on it, especially on the tail. It was not sooo big, and I have no idea how big it can be.

It was not happy when I grab the tail to pull it out into the road so we could take some better photos, this is a Boa, so it's not venomous. Erik grabbed it and the snake coil up on his arm and we could see the sharp teeth.

On the photo we can see the sharp teeth, and as I said it's not venomous.

We continue against Annai, and the road was not very good.

Here you can see that some part of the road look like, and without a 4x4 we had not made it.

But it was more, some places we could have used an amphibious vehicle/boat. You did not see the road and we was wade through, and had to stop several times to empty the airfilter of water. You don't get surprised when it's on the map you can read "Cattle trail".

The water is in the road and there is no ditches that can take care of the water, so you just have to wade through. Lucky for us was that Jerry had been driving here many time and knew where to go in the ponds.

The road!!!!!!!!!!!!

Water skiing would be better here after the car. But we got thru and found a small river with nice water so we could change water on our fish. There was a couple of guys from French Guyana that had plan going to Brazil on motorbikes. This did not go very well so, the bikes stopped in all the water. Lucky enough Jerry could help them to start the bikes so they could continue.

Here we found a nice small river so we could change water on our fish.

Of course we had to check this river too, to see what we could find. Here we collected a small tortoise, Splashingtetra and Corydoras sp.

Then we saw a sign saying we was leaving Wokrama Forest and came into the Amerindian district Annai.

Suddenly we saw some big birds in the road, they was picking sand, the photo is not good, but the birds was very cautious, and flew away. So I got only this photo.

Well the road was still not the best, but we manage the Rupunini Savannah.

We came thru here too, and then the road was not too bad out to the Rupuni Savannah.

Now we are out of the forest and out on the Savannah.

The photos does not give you the right impression of the Savannah, but in the rainy season a big part of the Savannah is flooded.

We had to get out of the car to check if we could pass.

It was not the best road so we had to check.

But we manage to reach it down to the Rupunini River. We did not collect a lot of fish, since we wanted to get back to Annai when it was still daylight. Next day we was planning to back to Georgtown.

When we came back to Linden we decide to take a break, and the beer did not taste bad.

Next day we was planning for our last place to go, and that was to fly up to the Amerindian Village, Kamarang. When we came to Georgtown we bought some fresh fruit. The Pine apple over there is great.

Buying fruit.

At last back at the Hotel in Georgtown and we got the same room. It's usually become a little messy when you are having things around.

And it was good to sleep in a bed again.

WE went the day after down to Shankar Travel Agency to ask when there was a plan avaiable to Kamarang? It was only one plan a week and that was today and it was full. So we had to charter a plan, and that would cost 613 US dollar one way, and that was for a small Cessna 206 and this plan had 5 seats. The departure would be 14.00pm the next day. So it was not much to do this day, so we went on a restaurant to have lunch, and then we should go to Duncans place to place our fish in several buckets. We could not bring our fish to Kamarang, the weight would be to heavy.

Here they are checking our weight. Not on a digital scale!!!!

We got problems with the weight, the plan could not take more than 600 kilo and that was include us. In the compartment they could put 75 kilo, but we had some kilo too. So we had to move around, but the pilot was not satisfied, it was to heavy in the back. So we had to kep some of the baggage on the our lap, and they also took out some of the gasoline. So at last we could start, out on the strip at Ogl airport.

Part of Mazaruni River.

Det ble en fin flytur, bare med noen regnbyger, flyturen tok ca. 1,5 time.

The air strip in Kamarang.

When we landed in Kamarang we was met by the police, the pilot just filled up the plane and dissapear, they could not fly when it was dark, so he had to get back when it was light. We was asked for paper, we showed our passport, but that was not good enough. We should have a paper that allowed as to enter the village. So instead of checking in at the Kamarang Guesthouse we had to carry our luggage down to the "Policestaion". Again they asked for the paper, which was given by the home office of internal affairs, they neededthe paper, but we could not give them anything we did not have. After written down our passport numbers, they called for the Chief of the village,which was a woman, but that did not help much, so at last they let us go, and said we should talk more the next day. So at last we could go up to check in at the Kamarang Guesthouse.

When we checked in, the owner said he should talk with them tomorrow.

The Guesthouse was okay, and there were also hammocks on the porch to relax in.

Here I'm sitting with the owner of the Kamarang Guesthouse and the shop, Ovid is his name is Ovid, he was a great guy and he also play guitar. In his shop he had everything.

The Chief came the day after and she said she would allow us to come out on the river, and then we could collect fish, but we had to use on of the village canoes, and we had to use people from theme and a policeman, so we did not do anything wrong? We took our equipment, hammocks and camping stove and food. Then we carry the things down to the river where they should pick us up. They came and we put our things into the canoe, when we start there was no speed on the canoe, the propeller was in the surface. So we drove to the other side of the river, they was talking to each other with the Indian dialect, and we did not understand a word. Comming to the other side we was waiting, on what???

Then came an Indian with a power saw with a very long sword, they discuss with each other where to cut. We did understand that the outboard motor was too short, so it did not get deep enough. So they would cut some of the boards som the outboarder could get deeper.

Here he start cutting, a small chainsaw????

Here he's cutting.

Then it was the beam. .

So the last finish.

Then we start down the river, and everything went well, we should go down to a place they called Pepper Camp.

Nice mountain in the background.

Biotope for Aequidens potaroensis, today the fish has changed genus to Krobia potaroensis and it was also Mazarunia mazarunii here. And that was the fish I was most interesting in. There were also some different Tetras in the biotope too, but I consentrate about the Mazarunia.

It was not an easy biotope to collect in, there was branches and logs, but I manage to collect some.

Young fish of Mazarunia mazarunii.

A young fish of Krobia potaroensis.

When we had collect fish, we cross the river over to Peppercamp where we should hang up our hammocks and make some food.

The dark came fast, but we manage to make some food. Tomorrow we are going back to Kamarang, but after breakfast we are going to collect a little more before we are going up the river.

Here we are on our way up the river to Kamarang, and we checked into the Guesthouse again.

On the evening we was invited by Ovid into his"gambling house" and had a good time, Ovid gave us Rum, but he did not have anything to mix it with, so we had to use water. It did not taste that good in the beginning, but after a few, it taste better. Ovids "gambling house" had a billiard table and a ping-pong table, but it must have cost a lot of money to get the billiard table up here with a plane, Ovid took his guitar and start singing, the Rum was working, but he was good to play and sing.

The day after we dicide to see if we could get a plane back to Georgtown, there was no reason to hang around here when we could no collect fish. We went to the office who was handling this and asked if there where coming a plane today.We was lucky and he said it was coming a bigger plane after lunch, but they could not promise there was places.

The plane came and we got place, they kicked out two and told theme to wait, we was a group and should go together.

Here we see a part of Kamarang from the air. It could have been room for more people in the plane, but gas was more valuable than passanger, they had to get the gas up with the plane. But the empty barrels needed space and was more important than the passenger.

Inside the plane, there was no safety belt or anything, we sat among the emty barrels, but we got back to Georgtown.

Barrels in front of Tor Atle.

When we have landed, the pilots went away, so we had to get the luggage out by ourselves. So then it was a taxi back to Rima Guesthouse.

We should visit the Kaiture Fall before we left Guyana, but I did not go with the others. I had got fever, because of a infection in my left arm, so we went to the Hospital to check my arm. It was so swollen, so it could remind me of Popeys arms. They stuck a needle in my arm, and matter came out. So they gave me some tablets for the fever and put on a bandage. The fever came down. So then we have to start packing to go home. When I came home there was more tablets, and it took tree monthe to get rid of the infection. But it was nearly worth it for the trip. So I stop the story here and start planning for a new trip, hope you enjoy the article.